Panaji – Old World Gentility, New World Sensibility

The capital of Goa is a special city. As the state’s commercial capital, it marries the exuberance of Goa with practical know-how. Usually Panaji is the entry point of most tourists in Goa and most leave the moment they land here, for its more famous North and South brethren. But stop by here for a couple of days and discover the city’s charms.

Full of charming old Portuguese bungalows, Panaji is lovely with its tree-shaded boulevards and its very own Miramar beach. Head towards the 31st January road – the old part of the city – reminiscent more of European capitals than any Indian city. Full of colour-washed villas, the streets are cobbled here and art galleries lie hidden, full of lovely antiques. Panaji is also home to some stunning churches.

Don’t miss the seafood here. A typical fish-serving restaurant will have so many varieties that your mind will boggle. The locals are friendly and go out of their way to help you and there’s a happy vibe which is downright infectious. Hire a car and drive down the road parallel to Miramar beach, passing ivy covered villas and quaint cottages. Don’t forget to eat at Mama’s Kitchen, a restaurant dedicated to resurrecting Goa’s original cuisine, a zesty amalgam of Portuguese and Indian ways of cooking, conjuring some sensational flavours.

PLACES to VISIT

  • Baga Beach: This is the tourist hub of Goa, forever bustling. Although all of Goa’s coastline offers great beaches, some crowded, some pristine. But the must-visit on any tourist’s itinerary is Baga Beach, about an hour’s drive from Panjim. The beach is lined with restaurants, cafes and bars and offers some good street-side shopping as well. This is where most budget hotels are located and you’ll find numerous shacks to hang out by the beach too. Tito’s the world famous club while for eating you can visit Britto’s by the beach. Another pub to try out is Mambo’s – don’t miss the desserts here!
  • Fort Aguada: Made famous by the Bollywood film ‘Dil Chahta Hai’, Fort Aguada is a seventeenth century fort built when Goa was under Portuguese rule. Its thick walls and wide moats take you back in centuries. And its ramparts offer a stunning view of the sea. Lying northwards, Fort Aguada lies about an hour and fifteen minutes’ drive from Panjim.
  • Old Goa: Old Goa was the capital of the erstwhile Portuguese empire that spread till China and was reportedly even richer than Lisbon. Today, it’s only a handful of churches built in dark stone but the architecture’s lovely and the area atmospheric. Visit the Basilica of Bom Jesus which houses the remains of St Francis Xavier.
  • River Mandovi cruise: This famous river is peppered with trawlers and most offer a musical evening on fun and dancing on board. A not-to-be-missed experience.
  • 31st January Road: This is Fontainhas, Panjim’s old quarter full of charming villas and art galleries. Walk down the cobbled pathways here and nip into an art gallery or two.

TRAVEL TIPS

  • If you can drive, it’s best to hire a car, bike or scooter for yourself and drive around.
  • In Goa, culinary surprises come hidden and abundant. Don’t be hesitant to eat at roadside shacks as long as they maintain a decent hygienic standard and you might stumble upon the best prawns Caldinha ever.

BEST TIME to visit

Weather wise, the best time to visit Panjim would be October to March when there is no rain and the temperatures mild. However, to beat the tourist rush, you can also visit Panjim during the monsoon when it’s the offseason. The city is clean and devoid of any crowds, the skies are always overcast and the showers of rain pleasant.

BEST WAY to reach

  • Air: All major airlines fly to Panjim to the Dabolim airport
  • Rail: There are numerous trains going from major cities to Goa. Try the Konkan Kanya if you’re travelling from Mumbai.
  • Road: Volvos run between Mumbai and Goa and offer a cheap (and air conditioned!) way of getting to the city.

ACCOMMODATION

Panjim like the whole of Goa, abounds in budget properties as well high-end luxury resorts. For something with a difference, try Panjim Inn, a heritage hotel that is full of antiques with personalised services. And the rooms come really cheap.